First of all, I have access to my Taig model lathe (from Lee Valley Tools - more on this company later), which I have used in the past to machine model steam engines from casting kits. For those who may be interested, here is a web site I created to chronicle my early efforts at fabricating model steam engines using the Taig lathe: http://www3.sympatico.ca/tflydon/ .
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Taig model lathe, configured for metal turning.
The tool that I DO find indispensable, though, is a "Dremel" tool, or its equivalent. To increase its utility, I made a very simple stand to enable its use as a table sander.
Here is the basic table, with an appropriate length of plastic pipe epoxied to it. (I was fortunate to have a piece the right diameter hanging about.) After drilling a hole just slightly larger than the miniature drum sander that I was going to use, I enlarged the underside to accept the plastic pipe and epoxied it in. Cutting out cooling slots and matching the case profile for things like the on/off switch completed the job.
Here is the result, and alongside it is the Craftsman-brand "Dremel" tool that I use.
Table adapter to use 'Dremel' tool as vertical sander.
Here the drill is inserted in the housing (a hose clamp provides the requisite holding force):
'Dremel' tool inserted in table adapter.
With a small drum sander inserted in the drill, you now have a model-sized drum sander. It lacks the up-and-down cycling of a commercial version but short of that, works just as well. You can adjust the height of the drum relative to the table surface by means of either the hose clamp or the drill's chuck/collet. (The paper shield you see glued to the table was put there in an effort to stop small pieces from being kicked off, never to be seen again!)
Mini drum sander mounted in table adapter.
Other than normal modeling knives, a pin vise and some numbered drills (in the #50 to #70 range) are the only essential tools I've used thus far. A good source for a reasonably priced pin vise is Lee Valley Tools (http://www.leevalley.com/en/home.aspx); this vice has the added benefit of including a set of 12 numbered drills. (If more sizes are needed, Lee Valley has sets for sale.)
Pin vise and numbered drills.
While I'm talking about Lee Valley Tools, I should point out that they are a source of materials as well. In particular, they sell a range of cherry veneer strips, which are invaluable for model ship builders. For my purposes, a tube of 24" X 3/16" strips (about 225 pieces) will more than meet my needs, although 1/8" and 1/4" wide strips are also available.
Cherry wood strips - 1/8, 3/16 and 1/4 inch width.
Finally, an invaluable source of information on the actual Bluenose II is the illustrated manual by L.B. Jenson, which includes measured drawings. With luck, you may be able to find a copy at your local library (I was), but I was also fortunate enough to catch sight of a copy at Lee Valley - needless to say, I purchased it on the spot.
Book of measured drawings of the Bluenose II by LB Jenson.
Given the drawings in this book and access to a printer/copier, I was able to enlarge (by 182%) the drawings to exactly match the size of my model. Since Jenson provides plan and side views of the deck furnishings, it should be possible to quite accurately replicate the real ship.
Copies of drawings from LB Jenson book, enlarged to match the model's dimensions.
Notice that there are some differences between the Bluenose II (as depicted in the drawings) and the original Bluenose (furnishings from the model sitting on top); in particular, the size of the deck house.
As it stands now, I plan to convert the model to the Bluenose II variant but that may change as the project proceeds.
Till the next time...
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