03 - Scale Determinations

Before starting to fabricate any part of the model, it was necessary to determine the actual scale of the model I had acquired. There was no indication of scale on the packaging, so I used the measurements given by Jenson in his book for key aspects of the full-size Bluenose II and then calculated various scale dimensions for different scale ratios. It became apparent that not all dimensions of the model were consistent with a single scale ratio. The chart below shows my findings:

Comparison chart of full size, model and theoretical dimensions. 

(Used to determine model scale ratio.)

The yellow column records the full-size measurement (from Jenson) and the red column details the corresponding measurements from the model. The next four columns are the theoretical scale measurements for the following ratios: 1:40, 1:44, 1:48 and 1:60. While no single ratio matched the model dimensions exactly, the scale ratio of 1:44 (green column) came closest, and that is what I have chosen for this model. Not a usual scale as far as I can determine but I'm sure no one will notice!

With this ratio established, I undertook to generate a spreadsheet to allow for easy determination of scale dimensions without the need to perform individual calculations each time I wanted to make a measurement. Here is the chart that I'm using - a real time saver. The chart is divided into two parts: the upper portion provides scale conversion for full-size measurements in inches from 1" to 60", and the lower portion provides conversion for full-size measurements in feet from 6' to 97'. Thus, any full-size dimension up to 102 feet (by combining data from both portions of the chart) can quickly be converted to a scale dimension in inches. Other than overall length of the boat, this will accommodate every possible measurement that will be encountered when modeling the Bluenose II.

Scale conversion chart for scale ratio of 1 to 44.

Another scale requirement is the need to ascertain the correct size of ropes used in the standing and running rigging. Since the sizes of wire and cable of the appropriate dimensions for this model are usually differentiated by "gauge" number, it was also necessary to develop a scale conversion chart for this purpose. (Wire, manila and polypropylene ropes used on the Bluenose II range in diameter from 3/4 to 3-1/4 inches.) With information sourced on the Internet, felt this chart afforded the best display of the required information:

Wire gauge chart. 

Note that the actual dimensions of the diameter of model-size rope and twine will be in the order of 0.018 to 0.074 inches, or 26 to 15 gauge.

Next post, I will document my use of this information to fabricate my first model components - rigging blocks to replace the round "bobins" on the original model.

But not until I'm back from Florida...

02 - Tools and Sources

I have a little time before leaving for Florida, so will provide a bit of background information before delving into the actual model construction in a month or so.

First of all, I have access to my Taig model lathe (from Lee Valley Tools - more on this company later), which I have used in the past to machine model steam engines from casting kits. For those who may be interested, here is a web site I created to chronicle my early efforts at fabricating model steam engines using the Taig lathe: http://www3.sympatico.ca/tflydon/ .

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Taig model lathe, configured for metal turning.

While not critical to working on this model, it does come in handy; thus far, I've used it to taper the masts. However, this could likely be accomplished using a drill fixed in a clamp, so the lathe is a "nice-to-have" when working with wood.

The tool that I DO find indispensable, though, is a "Dremel" tool, or its equivalent. To increase its utility, I made a very simple stand to enable its use as a table sander.

Here is the basic table, with an appropriate length of plastic pipe epoxied to it. (I was fortunate to have a piece the right diameter hanging about.) After drilling a hole just slightly larger than the miniature drum sander that I was going to use, I enlarged the underside to accept the plastic pipe and epoxied it in. Cutting out cooling slots and matching the case profile for things like the on/off switch completed the job.

Here is the result, and alongside it is the Craftsman-brand "Dremel" tool that I use.

Table adapter to use 'Dremel' tool as vertical sander.

Here the drill is inserted in the housing (a hose clamp provides the requisite holding force):

'Dremel' tool inserted in table adapter.

With a small drum sander inserted in the drill, you now have a model-sized drum sander. It lacks the up-and-down cycling of a commercial version but short of that, works just as well. You can adjust the height of the drum relative to the table surface by means of either the hose clamp or the drill's chuck/collet. (The paper shield you see glued to the table was put there in an effort to stop small pieces from being kicked off, never to be seen again!)

Mini drum sander mounted in table adapter.

Other than normal modeling knives, a pin vise and some numbered drills (in the #50 to #70 range) are the only essential tools I've used thus far. A good source for a reasonably priced pin vise is Lee Valley Tools  (http://www.leevalley.com/en/home.aspx);  this vice has the added benefit of including a set of 12 numbered drills. (If more sizes are needed, Lee Valley has sets for sale.)

Pin vise and numbered drills.

While I'm talking about Lee Valley Tools, I should point out that they are a source of materials as well. In particular, they sell a range of cherry veneer strips, which are invaluable for model ship builders. For my purposes, a tube of 24" X 3/16" strips (about 225 pieces) will more than meet my needs, although 1/8" and 1/4" wide strips are also available.

Cherry wood strips - 1/8, 3/16 and 1/4 inch width.

Finally, an invaluable source of information on the actual Bluenose II is the illustrated manual by L.B. Jenson, which includes measured drawings. With luck, you may be able to find a copy at your local library (I was), but I was also fortunate enough to catch sight of a copy at Lee Valley - needless to say, I purchased it on the spot.



Book of measured drawings of the Bluenose II by LB Jenson.

Given the drawings in this book and access to a printer/copier, I was able to enlarge (by 182%) the drawings to exactly match the size of my model. Since Jenson provides plan and side views of the deck furnishings, it should be possible to quite accurately replicate the real ship.

Copies of drawings from LB Jenson book, enlarged to match  the model's dimensions.

Notice that there are some differences between the Bluenose II (as depicted in the drawings) and the original Bluenose (furnishings from the model sitting on top); in particular, the size of the deck house. 

As it stands now, I plan to convert the model to the Bluenose II variant but that may change as the project proceeds.

Till the next time...



01 - In the beginning...

This blog has been created to document the trials and tribulations of building a ship model. In fact, this will be my first attempt at both blogging and building a ship model, so who knows how this will all turn out!

To be absolutely truthful, I am not starting from scratch. About a year ago (2010), I caught sight of a ready-built model of the Bluenose II at the local Costco warehouse and made a snap purchase decision. I had always wanted a model of this renowned Nova Scotia schooner and the price was certainly right - about $50, if memory serves me!

However, when I liberated the model from its box, I discovered - perhaps not surprisingly - that the model lacked considerable attention to detail - a museum-quality model it was not! Inserting the masts and connecting numbered lines were the only assembly tasks required, as evidenced by the minimal assembly "instructions" provided:

Original kit assembly instructions - one page!

Appearance just after the masts were stood up. Note the Coke can for indication of scale.

 Step 1 of assembly - insert masts!

Completed assembly:

Assembly complete - such as it is!

While it might look reasonable from a distance, a closer inspection would reveal, for example, a reliance on brass screw-eyes and hooks to serve as fittings, detracting significantly from any resemblance to the full-size ship. Other examples of poor execution were a lack of taper on the masts and the use of round bobbins as a substitute for rigging blocks. This is a picture of the original hardware I removed from the model:

Original rigging hardware, representing blocks and dead-eyes.

And other details, such as the deck planking, were either not to scale or were just poorly executed, such as no cross trees on the masts or the use of plastic ratlines. Here is a close-up of the deck, showing that individual planks were represented merely by cutting groves in what is apparently a sheet of plywood. (The marks are where I've removed the former deck furnishings in anticipation of installing new planking - seen just to the right in the picture.)

Original simulated decking. (Marks are where deck furniture pulled off.)

Somewhat disappointed, I relegated the model to a corner of my office for the better part of a year, only recently deciding to try my hand at enhancing the detail. Since I've already expended some time at fabricating bits and pieces, the first part of this blog will be devoted to reviewing efforts to date.

Once that is accomplished, we will get on with the current state of play.

However, that may be some time in the future, as I will be taking a hiatus to Florida shortly and it won't be until April that I will be able to devote time to both this blog and the model.

Until I get back at it....